A coastal haven where Bali's spirit unravelsOn Canggu Beach, surfers are silhouetted in the morning sun, boards under arms ready to take on Bali's famous reef breaks. Watching the waves, listening to the call of the Indian Ocean, you might catch the scent of incense or the melody of the gamelan emitting from Pura Batu Mejan, a centuries old sea temple set on rock as black as jet. A blessed way to begin each day.